白酒品尝中嗅觉-感受协同机制的研究

As one of "The world's six distilled liquor", Chinese liquor is the essence of Chinese traditional brewing craft and meets the sensory requirements for preference with its excellent quality. As the consumer attention shifts from smell to taste for liquor quality, the unique taste experience such as "pure and long aftertaste" is esteemed by consumers. Food taste impression formation is not only from the taste produced by flavor components, but also from the retronasal olfaction coordinating role from ductus nasopharyngeus into the nasal cavity. The latter can significantly foil product quality characteristics or highlight potential quality defects. As the food taste process is affected by temperature and saliva, dynamic release of aroma composition is different from direct smell experience static volatile aroma components. The more important is that the traditional chemical analysis method cannot clarify its mechanism. Based on the liquor sensory characteristics of the standard terminology and sensory evaluation method, we try to construct an in vitro "artificial mouth" system to imitate the aroma release process, analyze the volatile aroma change rule and their contribution to olfactory characteristics, and clarify the flavor chemical basis and the forming mechanism of orthonasal olfactory. This project will be beneficial to perfect liquor quality evaluation standards and improve product quality, and play an important role in inheritance and innovation of traditional Chinese fermented food.

作为"六大蒸馏酒"之一的白酒是中国传统酿造技艺的精粹，以其优良品质满足了人们嗜好性的感官需求。随着消费者对白酒品质从关注闻香到注重品尝的转变，"余味（回味）爽净、悠长"等独特的品尝特征逐步受到消费者推重。白酒品尝感受不仅源于呈味成分产生的口味口感，还受到香气成分由鼻咽管进入鼻腔引起的鼻后嗅觉协同作用，后者能显著烘托产品的优良特征或凸显潜在品质缺陷。传统研究注重白酒中风味成分剖析，忽视了嗅觉在品尝中的感官协同效应，品尝感受的形成机制尚不明确。本课题在前期白酒感官评价技术标准研制与风味成分剖析基础上，拟通过构建体外"人工口腔系统"模拟白酒品尝过程，研究香气分子释放规律及其对鼻后嗅觉的影响，分析鼻后嗅觉对白酒品尝感受的协同作用，以阐明白酒余味等品尝感受的风味化学基础与感官形成机制。课题成果为完善白酒质量评价技术标准、改进产品品质提供技术支撑，同时，对我国传统发酵食品的传承和创新具有示范意义。

本课题①采用定量描述分析与秒持值衡定评酒法，通过缺失品尝感受首次证实了白酒品尝中存在鼻后嗅觉协同机制，其对品尝感受中持久度、谐调度和丰满度的重要贡献。②基于实时直接分析离子源串联四级杆质谱技术（Direct Analysis in Real Time-Mass Spectrometry，DART-MS），优化建立了一种在线检测口腔中挥发性风味物质释放的设备和方法，定性确认了28种典型白酒风味物质的特征峰。③对余味持久度不同的清浓酱三种典型香型白酒检测品尝中17种典型风味物质分析发现，风味物质种类和强度持续时间与三种香型白酒的感官特征相吻合。④基于专业品评人员口腔生理参数的测定分析，设计人工口腔模拟装置。模拟白酒品尝中的风味释放，研究了挥发性风味物质释放持续时间与感官品余味持久度的相关性模型，构建了稳定、客观、定量评价余味持久度的体外仪器评价方法。