畸形波的近岸演变及其对海岸结构致灾机制研究

Freak waves are strongly nonlinear waves surprisingly appearing on the sea surface, which can cause tremendous destruction to human beings and structures in the coastal zone. However, owning to a lack of knowledge about the nonlinearity and randomness related to freak waves, only few of the mechanisms have been understood by researchers and engineers. In order to protect coastal structures from being attacked by freak waves, further research should be undertaken. By combining physical model with mathematical model, evolution process and impact mechanisms of freak waves will be obtained. The research will focus on the motion of free surface, evolution of energy spectrum, fluid-structure coupling process, features of inner flow fields, sea wave loads on maritime structures and its response characteristics. We will take a CIP-based numerical solver developed by ourselves to solve the flow field, a more accurate surface-capturing algorithm-the THINC/SW-will be adopted to treat the free surface. Meanwhile, large eddy simulation will be employed to deal with turbulence. This project aims to reveal the nearshore evolution mechanism of freak waves and its action on coastal structures, increase human's understanding of disastrous waves, reduce the threat on human activities and solve the problems of engineering design, which has theoretical significances and engineering application values.

畸形波是一种瞬时存在、具有强非线性和严重破坏性的复杂物理过程，其非线性、破坏性和随机性成为畸形波理论研究的主要障碍。由于缺乏恰当的数学工具，人们对其认识模糊。近岸海域是人类活动聚集区，开展灾害波浪畸形波的近岸演变及其作用的研究是必要的。本项目拟采用自主开发的数学模型与模型试验相结合的方式，开展畸形波与海岸结构相互作用的研究，再现畸形波的近岸演变及其作用过程；重点分析畸形波近岸演变过程中的波面信息、能量谱的变化、内部流场结构特征和作用过程中的流-固耦合流场特征、波浪荷载特性、结构的响应特性等内容；数学模型以CIP方法为基本流场求解器，采用具有更高精度的THINC/SW方法重构自由面，同时引入大涡模拟方法处理涡旋运动和湍流效应。本项目旨在揭示畸形波的近岸演变机制及其对海岸结构的致灾机制，增加人类对灾害波浪的认识、降低其对人类活动的威胁，具有重要的理论意义和工程应用价值。

近岸海域是人类活动聚集区，开展灾害波浪畸形波的近岸演变及其作用的研究是必要的。本项目采用自主开发的数学模型与模型试验相结合的方式，开展了畸形波与海岸结构相互作用的研究，再现畸形波的近岸演变及其作用过程；重点分析了畸形波近岸演变过程中的波面信息、能量谱的变化、内部流场结构特征和作用过程中的流-固耦合流场特征、波浪荷载特性、结构的响应特性等内容；数学模型以CIP 方法为基本流场求解器，采用具有更高精度的THINC/SW方法重构自由面，同时提出了一种双液相VOF方法，分析了波浪传播和破碎过程中的质量输移问题。本课题的研究对于深入了解畸形波的近岸演变机制及其对海岸结构的致灾机制，增加人类对灾害波浪的认识、降低其对人类活动的威胁，具有重要的理论意义和工程应用价值。.发表标注本基金资助的论文52篇，其中SCI收录论文16篇，EI收录论文4篇，参加国际学术交流3人次，国内学术交流18人次；培养博士研究生1名，硕士生6名；授权发明专利2项，授权实用新型专利3项。